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where has all the ice cream gone?
It’s summer in Armenia, and outside the stores and markets where people do their shopping, alongside all the fresh fruits and vegetables that Armenians endlessly praise. Parallel to the sidewalk, there are lines of…
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i am a rock, i am an island.
How many bottles of vodka have you been gifted while hiking in the US? I’m sure your answer is none. The best way to experience everything Armenia can offer is strapping a 35L backpack…
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spies with smiles
My next door neighbor here in Armenia is an officer in the Russian army. I’m sure it looked suspicious when a young, single, American, who speaks Armenian, moved into the apartment next door (which…
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a country that doesn’t need ghost stories
March 10th was my one-year anniversary in Armenia, and you could say I’m out of the honeymoon phase. I have a routine at my site. I know what to expect day to day, and…
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PC armenia watchlist
Before coming to Armenia, I tried to learn as much about the country as possible. For me, the best way to learn about a place is through art that highlights it. Armenian cinema does…
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gyumri has a face, yerevan has a soul
Armenia is a nation of contradictions. East and West, ancient and developing, untamed and connected. For me, these contradictions can be understood in the differences between its two largest cities, Yerevan and Gyumri. Two…
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stranger in an even stranger land
Last week, I took a solo trip up to Georgia and realized what living in Armenia means to me. Traveling to other countries from Armenia is difficult. 72% of Armenia’s border is closed. 27…
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xosum em hayeren – i speak armenian
Six months ago I couldn’t speak Hayeren (Armenian). I remember touching down in Yerevan, seeing all the signs written in this new alphabet and thinking “I’m never going to learn this” The greatest thing…
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the new normal
Now that I’ve been in Armenia for just under six months, I’m starting to adjust to the new culture I live in. “Arten hay es Meri jan” is something that I hear more and…
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